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On mixed ground in Meløy & Lofoten

March 10, 2017

After the Alpine Meeting in Kjøpsvik we set off for the coast of Helgeland and Meløy. Øyvind Gjersvik who runs Meløy Adventure arranged a nice room for us at his lodge. Our first goal was Lille Blokktind, (984 m) a steep mountain in Rødøy. I was told by local historians that the peak did not have any winter ascents and maybe no ascents at all. Rather tempting, I would say?

 

 A joyful little gully at Lille Blokktind. 

 

The weather was not the best, but we gave it a shot and summit in a layer of clouds, and abseiling in the darkness. Our route was fun, a few pitches of mixed and ice climbing. Back at base camp Meløy it was revealed that the FWA was made two months ago. Hmm, that was a bummer but still a nice day out. 

 

The next day was sunny and we favoured an easy day, so we set off for the most popular peak in the area, Istinden.(1194 m) Spent hours at the summit looking at the sunset before we found some really nice skiing on the way down. Spectacular views towards my beloved Helgeland... Made me homesick for a while! 

 

Emma took a day off resting her shoulder so Øyvind and I did a traverse a bit south of Glomfjord. Spectacular settings and good climbing although we did not finish the entire ridge. But, a good reason to be back! And what an area.. Alpine lines and ice for a lifetime. 

 

Back in Lofoten again I did some skitouring on Trolltindan, while Emma continued working on her rehabilitation. The ridge at Trolltindmuren  is simply breathtaking with pinnacles resembling the best of the aigullies in Chamonix. So many possibilities. 

 

Driving around we spotted a great alpine line west of Leknes at the north face of Digertinden.(501 m) We decided to go there at the last day of the weather window and climbed the route, brilliant mixed climbing around 400m, WI4+ M3. More about the climb here: 

 

https://www.lofot-tidende.no/sport/klatring/flakstad/utvikler-vinterklatring-i-vest-lofoten/s/5-28-30636

 

Strong winds from the west combined with heavy rain made us retreat to the caravan life for a few days before the next adventure...

 

 The steep north face of Litle Blokktind and happy climbers at the summit. 

 

 The grand traverse in Meløy

 

 Snow, ice and lots of sun during the day..

 

 I could see all the way back home to Lurøy from Istinden.

 

 Trollsadelen on a glorious day. The skiing was quite good too!

 

 The north face of Digertinden. Our route is clearly visible to the left of the face. 

 

 Emma leading on mixed ground

 

 Steep ice ahead. 

 

 From sea to summit.

 

The last pitch of ice. Amazing stuff!

 

 

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